This was one of the collections that I have been anticipating most, forget Kane and Pugh, because I’m convinced that Roksanda Ilincic is the real one to watch. I thought the colour and texture of the yellow pieces scattered across the collection were perfect, there was something vaguely off about the colour; like it should have been brighter, which for me made it even better. The colour was especially effective for the slip style skirt midi skirt which was paired with a body con, yet still suitably feminine bra. The rest of the collection mostl focused on a “British Spring” board of colour- mushy show greys, and plenty of off-colour monochromes. While everyone has been raving about the “midi dress” I haven’t seen many wearable pieces to convince me of its worthiness (apart from that purple Lanvin dress from the fall collections) but Ilincic’s hemlines have given me a sense of what the fuss is about.
The simplicity of the luxe fabrics reminds me of the pieces that have been in Reiss recently. Okay, I know it should be the high (end) street taking influence from the designers, and I’m also sure that Roksanda has enough of a fashion brain to come up with those designs without drawing ideas from Reiss, but it’s just an observation. I was hoping to see a little more of the volume and shape that drew my attention to her in the first place. The structured shoulders were a nice touch but the tuxedo jacket was just a little too much,
and took away from a wonderful combination of pieces. Still, I always think it’s better to do overstated than under. That way you’re never left wondering “what if?...”
In terms of beauty and accessorising, I felt that more could have been done with the hair and make up, it just seemed a little too “typical spring collection” which funnily enough, is a look that lots of designers seem to have reverted back to this season. Though the bright red and pink hues of lipstick slightly make up for this. The shoes on the other hand were spot on, with just the right amount of the“sexy powerwoman” feel that I am seeking from the spring collections. I don’t think the body con mood has quite left yet, though it needs to be adapted, preferably veering in the dominatrix direction, and the patent leather and sharp heels (again reminiscent of Lanvin) in the footwear department certainly satisfied those needs...